French scientists warn
French scientists warn that Camembert and Brie cheeses could become extinct due to a decline in the fungi used in their production. In addition to these types of cheeses, Roquefort is also at risk.
The National Center for Scientific Research (CNRS) said efforts over decades to make Camembert with its typical white rind had affected the fungus used to make the cheese. According to the organization's report, because of this, this strain may cease to exist, which will lead to the «extinction» of Camembert
Blue cheeses such as Roquefort are also said to be at risk, but not to the same extent as Brie and Camembert, which ripen on the surface.
Both families are the product of curds contaminated with fungus . The blue spores that characterize Roquefort come from Penicillium roqueforti, and Penicillium camberti gives the unique texture to the skins of Brie and Camembert.
The fungus is thought to grow naturally on cheeses stored in damp, cold cellars, especially in Normandy, where Camembert was invented.
Cheesemakers have discovered that it is easier to use spores obtained in the laboratory for this process. Camembert curds were first inoculated with different strains, resulting in rinds of different colors and textures.
In Normandy, cheese makers selected an albino strain of Penicillium camberti to preserve the white rind of Camembert.
“But what happens, as every time an organism large or small is subjected to excessively strong selection, is that their genetic diversity has been significantly reduced,” says Jeanne Ropars, a researcher at the Laboratory of Ecology, Systematics and Evolution at the University of Paris-Saclay .
The CNRS said microorganisms in cheese can be involved in both sexual and asexual reproduction, but noted that the food industry depends on “an asexual method that produces clonal lines to preserve the mold.”
The result is a cheese of a typical format, but over time «causes degeneration of the strain of fungus in question.»
The report also said: «Blue cheeses may be under threat, but the situation is with Camembert, which is already in verge of extinction, much worse.”
The fact is that Penicillium camberti has lost the ability to reproduce sexually, as well as “the ability to produce asexual spores.” This has made it very difficult for industry to obtain enough spores to inoculate their products.
Researcher Tatiana Girod noted that the only way to reverse this trend is “the diversity provided by sexual reproduction between individuals with different genomes.” » This would mean that the cheeses would not always be identical in appearance and taste.
However, the CNRS notes that cheese lovers will have to grow up to appreciate more «variety of flavor, color and texture» if they want to continue to enjoy these products.