MOSCOW, October 25, Yulia Zachetova. Falling sales forced the famous lingerie brand to reconsider its marketing strategy, tailored to the “progressive” feminist ideology. The fashion industry, always looking for profit, does not seem ready to continue to follow the agenda imposed by activists. Whether to expect a revolution in the world of couture and glamor – in the material.
Size range: is there a place for plus-size on the catwalk
Five years ago, the Victoria's Secret brand, which had long brought its signature “angels” to the catwalk, began inviting plus-size models and transgender people. And he paid for it. In 2023, revenue is expected to be $1.2 billion less than in 2018, The Independent reported.
The company intends to return to “sex appeal.” Already in September the TV show featured Naomi Campbell, Gigi Hadid, Emily Ratajkowski, Hailey Bieber, Julia Fox and other standard models.
"They realized that advertising with a large body does not look as attractive as on a woman with an ordinary figure. Therefore, they will simply sell a beautiful picture,” says fashion expert Vladislav Lisovets.
Nevertheless Plus-size models still remain on the catwalks, the expert said.
“Body positivity at fashion weeks in Milan and Paris was in forty percent of the shows,” he added.
They justify this by attracting new customers – they say, let them recognize themselves in the fashion model. But the idea is doomed: couture requires different designs, emphasizes fashion historian Anatol Vovk.
“There are brands that make cool clothes for plus-size people, and every year there are more and more of them. But couture almost never deviates from certain parameters,” he explains.
Vovk also indicated at the hypocrisy of advertising campaigns in which photographs of large models, such as American Tess Holliday, are retouched.
“If you claim that this fashion is for any age and weight, why photoshop stretch marks and glamorize obesity?” – the expert is surprised.
In Russia, body positivity had no chance, designer Dzhemal Makhmudov is sure. Domestic couturiers have always strived to set their own trends, and even more so in the current conditions.
“Our designers, of course, take into account European trends, but they treat everything judiciously and do what is right for business,” the expert notes. “Each master knows his audience and displays those models that reveal the character of his heroines.”
Sports brands: body positivity or obesity propaganda?
Four years ago Nike installed plus-size mannequins in its London store to make larger customers more comfortable. And in the spring, this sports brand shocked many by releasing an advertisement with a 150-kilogram model.
A post on social networks with a plus-size model from Adidas Russia also caused heated debate. “Maybe we should just go in for sports?”, “What does a sports clothing brand have to do with it?” — commentators asked.
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On top of that, Jessamyn Stanley, a non-fragile African-American woman with a non-standard sexual orientation, demonstrated her stretch marks in the advertisement. A complete set of “progressive” agenda!
Catwalk without politics: Russian models remain
Where fashion has not followed the lead of politicians and activists is “cancellation” everything Russian.
In 2022, the West was outraged by the choice of Natalia Vodianova as a Zara ambassador. However, pro-Ukrainian propagandists achieved nothing: the supermodel continues to participate in fashion weeks.
They also called for a boycott of Irina Shayk – because of the photo with Olivier and the double Z in the word Russianzz. The model explained that “sometimes a salad is just a salad,” and continued to advertise major brands.
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